Bent Construction

Bent is a block, not a pattern

A block is a basic shape on which other patterns are based. They are sometimes also called slopers, although purists will argue that a block and a sloper are different things.

Blocks are typically not made as-is but rather serve as a basis for other patterns so the instructions below will not go in depth about closures or finishes and are for the default Bent block.

As Bent is a block it does not have any closures. So the instructions below will explain how to make a Bent with a seam down the centre front so you can pin yourself into it.

Step 1: Mock-up Construction

  • Sew the fronts to the back at the shoulder seams good sides together.
  • Sew the fronts to the back at the side seams good sides together.
  • Sew the under sleeves to the top sleeves good sides together along the side seams.
  • Attach the sleeves to the body, good sides together and sew them in the round.

You may need to ease/gather the sleeves to fit.
You may need to leave the bottom of one of the sleeve seams open to put the garment on.

If you are making adjustments you may wish to sew the seams wrong sides together to make them easier to adjust.

Step 2: Try it on

  • Try it on and check the fit by pinning the front closed whilst wearing it.
  • Make any alterations and try it on again.
  • Repeat until you are happy.
If you do not have someone to help with pinning alterations, you can use a dressform to pin any alterations that are hard to do on person. Just remember to try it on after to make sure it fits you.

Keep an eye out for anything you keep doing whilst wearing the mock-up, are you pulling it down? Constantly adjusting the shoulder? etc. Things like these are signs of where the pattern may need adjusting.

Sometimes you may need to wear the mock-up for an extended amount of time to get a better sense of the fit so don't be afraid to walk around in it for a couple of hours.

Remember to treat Bent as a basis rather than a final product, so adjust what you need to get the desired look. For instance: - Change the neck line - Add/change the closure allowances - Alter the hem style - Add a collar

It is all up to you! Experiment and go forth!

Step 3: Make a paper pattern

  • Once happy with all your changes unpick your mockup and make a paper pattern based off of it.
  • Now you have a pattern you can use to produce a garment.

It is best practice to make a paper pattern from the mock-up if you have made any alterations, as this will allow you to clean up any lines but also means you have a pattern that you can keep producing garments from.

Bent is a block, looking for a finalised pattern?

Here are some of the patterns based on Bent: Carlton, Carlita, and Jaeger.